The smells as you walk through the city can knock you over-amazing ones like grilling meat at a street vendor, and the next second a face slap of sewer stench.
Crossing the street is an experience. You have to choose zen-like calm and trust that they will not hit you or glare them down and dash through. I watched a tiny old lady in chinatown just step out and cross a crazy street without even really looking, but all the cars and scooters slowed or swerved around her.
Walking around here is not contemplative. You have to be vigilant for things like broken curbs, tipping sewer covers, street vendors boiling things in oil on the narrow sidewalk, drooping power lines, scooters coming down the sidewalk-if you even have a sidewalk, which you often don't.
We are so used to a high level babysiting with big brother watching out for our safety with signs, sidewalks, barriers, regulations, building codes, etc. There is so much less of that here, and people are so much more aware of what's going on around them. You really have to get into a different mindset.
If I do it over, I think coming to Bangkok last might be better. Go to the islands first, acclimate to the heat, get over your jet lag, and experience Thailand a bit. Then come and explore the city. You'll get more out of it.
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